RED SQUARE BLUES

A few years ago President Reagan dubbed it "The Evil Empire. Others describe it as "Mexico City with 'The Bomb.'" Today even the name is uncertain. What we once called the U.S.S.R. is a nation in turmoil. Each day the media is filled with news of radical reforms in the former Soviet Union's economy, military and government.

These changes were driven home when I attended the 1991 May Day parade in Red Square. Instead of a gigantic military parade cheered on by hundreds of thousands of celebrants, May Day was a dismal one hour affair with a well-orchestrated mob of civilians holding a few banners. In hindsight, I realize that I'd probably witnessed the last Soviet May Day--ever!

Even Gavziil Popov, the mayor of Moscow, boycotted the event in protest of Gorbachev's economic policies. During my 40-day stay in the ex-Soviet Union this spring, the only person I found who admitted he was a Communist was an American journalist!

Victory Day, however, was a different story. On May 9 Russians celebrate their triumph over the Germans in World War II. They lost 20 million people during the "Great Patriotic War," so it is time of both great pain and joy for Russians.

I visited the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier on Victory Day. I was startled to discover solemn people standing in line for hours just to place a flower on the steps. They speak of the war like it happened last year, not as a half-century old conflict. Old comrades gather to celebrate in the streets, and there are parades and fireworks.

Ironically, Russia is one of the few places left on Earth where being an American is a positive factor. Most Russians are intensely curious and envious the West, and a surprising number speak English. Some will guide you around just for the opportunity practice the language.

Out in the general economy, you'll find that hard currencies like the dollar have incredible purchasing power. The government is constantly devaluing the ruble, which is down now to an absurd 40 rubles per dollar, or about 96 rubles per dollar on the black market. Since a typical Russian earns only about 400 rubles per month, a Westerner's pocket money is likely to be a year's salary to a Russian.

Don't go over there expecting to buy the place out, though. Besides the famous Russian lacquer boxes, nested dolls, fur hats, pins, caviar, books and tablecloths, there is little to buy. But for photographers, Russia is the land of opportunity.

--Photo Opportunities--

Now that religion is no longer suppressed, this enormous country is a wonderland of marvelous cathedrals and monasteries that are undergoing renovation. The beautiful Russian Orthodox churches are especially spectacular. For a real visual treat, attend a traditional Russian wedding. Bring some 1600-speed film, though. You don't want to use flash, and those churches are DARK.

Other great picture possibilities exist in the markets, metro, parks and museums that abound throughout Russia. Unlike some cultures, most people are happy to be photographed once they find out that you are from the West.

I always ask permission to take a picture, though, sometimes with just a nod and a smile. Photographers should always respect a person's wishes and not stick a camera in someone's face who doesn't want to be photographed. If you miss a shot, remember that there are ten thousand other picture possibilities.

--Staying in Russia--

Thanks to Moscow's burgeoning eight to ten million population, housing is exceedingly limited. This, plus a desperate need to generate hard currency, motivates hotel managements to charge a most un-comradely price for rooms. Moscow hotels catering to Westerners typically charge 175 to 500 dollars per night for rooms that might not have towels or hot water!

I got around this problem by living with Russians wherever I went. I was lucky enough to take part in the first-ever exchange program between a U.S. newspaper and Fotokhronika TASS. This program was developed by Geary Broadnax, Director of Photography at the Houston Post, Fred Baldwin, Director of Houston FotoFest, and Natalya Yermilina, Assignments Editor of Fotokhronika TASS.

An exchange program may be difficult to arrange because of red tape, but it's a chance of a lifetime. You'll find many Russians are eager to participate, especially if they have an opportunity to live in your country for awhile. Consider exchange programs between news agencies, schools and universities, large businesses and so forth.

Most people, though, travel to Russia in tour groups, which is a great way to see the highlights and magnificent architecture of this country. The drawback is that it is difficult to break away and travel on your own. You also don't get a true "feel" for what it is like to live as a Russian; the joys and aggravations of everyday life.

Contrary to popular press reports at the time, I found that there was still plenty of food in Russia. This leads me to take current and future news reports about food shortages with a grain of salt. It's almost impossible to find anything special, but the basics like bread, milk, cheese, sausage, beets, fish, potatoes and so forth were in plentiful supply. The problem may soon become serious, though. Life is no joke to people whose economy is in disarray.

--Transportation--

Transportation in and around Moscow and Leningrad (or "St. Petersburg," now that Lenin has fallen from favor) is a snap. I'm especially fond of their world-famous Metro that was as fast and efficient as advertised. I suggest getting a map of whatever city you travel to that includes both the Metro lines and the names of streets in Russian and English. Buy the maps before leaving home; you'll probably have a tough time finding them in Russia.

Taxi's are available, but they will try to charge you "hard" currency a dozen times the going rate when they find out that you are from the West. This practice is illegal, but widespread. The trains are inexpensive and efficient. I took a "sleeper" between Moscow and Leningrad (St. Petersburg) and found it to be a fascinating experience--if you aren't too concerned about privacy.

The state-run airline, Aeroflot, is an experience I'd try to avoid whenever possible. As with the trains, don't expect to get an in-flight meal or a comfortable seat. The flights are basic transportation between Point A and Point B. As with any trip within the Commonwealth of Independent States, carry everything you think you'll need, including food and toilet paper.

--Drawbacks--

Like any big city, you want to remain alert for muggers and thieves. Crime in Moscow is skyrocketing, especially since the economy has collapsed. Thieves target Westerners by our clothing, shoes and cameras. In particular, keep a death grip on your passport and visa!

Try to keep a low profile in your travels; bring your older, worn and comfortable clothes to Russia. Carry just one camera on the streets. And it's just common sense to take special care when going though crowds in the subways and markets.

Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES do you want to get in trouble with the police. Prisoner rights are minimal in the former Soviet Union. I witnessed two instances where the local police used nightsticks to beat an unresisting suspect to a pulp before hauling him away to jail. Enjoy yourself, but STAY OUT OF TROUBLE!

--Things to Bring--

Russia suffers from almost a complete lack of consumer items. When I say consumer items, we're talking about things as basic as aspirin, AA batteries and toothpaste! Photographers should bring along all the film, batteries and backup gear that you think you'll need for the trip. You can sometimes find these items, but they are expensive, rare, and of suspect quality.

Leave motor drives and esoteric lenses at home unless you have a specific need for these items. You can shoot almost everything with lenses ranging from 20mm (for architecture) to 200mm. I carried a couple of f/2.8 EOS zooms that took care of 99 percent of my photographic needs. Store film in clear plastic bags and hand-carry it past the airport X-ray machines.

Be sure to bring along an extra pair of glasses and any prescription medicine you need. Smart travelers carry cold and anti-diarrhea medicine, vitamins and toilet paper. Remember to bring warm clothes--the Russian weather is every bit as changeable and chilly as rumored.

--In Closing--

One of the smartest things I did before the trip was to pick up a Russian language tape and learn two or three hundred words and phrases. The Russians are a proud people, and I suspect it bothers them that so few Westerners bother to learn their language. Just being able to say "Hello," "Goodbye" and talk about the weather would make faces light up. It opened some doors that might have otherwise remained closed.

Generally, the former Soviet Union is not a fun place; life is especially tough these days. But is a fascinating and beautiful country. I especially enjoyed visiting the small villages a couple of hundred miles outside Moscow. The people are warm and friendly, and their rich culture produces some marvelous picture possibilities.

This is a time of transition and turmoil for the 290 million people in the Commonwealth of Independent States. Each day brings us fresh reports of governmental changes and economic problems. I don't know how they can maintain a sense of humor about their societies' shortcomings, but I do admire the Russian spirit that remains undeterred by red tape, shortages, and hardships.